Recently the Hon. Central Cabinet Minister for Textiles mentioned that annual exports of Indian Textile Products would double in the next two years and would reach a staggering level of Rs. One Lakh Ten Thousand Crores. This will give you a glimpse of extent of opportunity thrown open to the Indian Textile Industry under New WTO Regime. Further as per the VISION PAPER for the Indian Textile Sector prepared by CRICIL for ICMF, production of cotton yarn is likely to almost double by 2010. Annual Exports of Textile Products from India are likely to reach a level of $ 40 billion (about Rs.1,76,000 crores) by 2010 from the existing level of about $ 12 billion (in 2003). This is likely to generate additional about 12 million jobs in near future. Indian Textile Industry is thus on the threshold of getting into a FAST GROWTH MODE.

Shifting of Textile activity to Asia:

It has been rightly said that 21st Century will belong to Asia. This is getting more and more clear and holds good even in case of Textile Sector. It is well known that with very high labour costs in U.S.A and Europe, entire activity from spinning to garmenting will shift to Asian countries like China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka etc. With the abolition of Quota Regime, each country would try to grab maximum share of world trade in textile and garment sector. Indian Textile Industry will have to face fierce competition particularly from China, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. It is now very clear that China will secure much larger share vis-à-vis other competing countries and India will have to settle down to a second position.

Advantages to Indian Cotton Textile Industry:

In addition to availability of large labor force with required skills at a comparatively cheap rate, Indian Textile Industry has a great advantage in that India is the third largest cotton producing country in the World. Moreover, India has the largest area under cotton in the world. Further the average cotton yields per hectare were as low as 310 kgs per hectare as against countries like China, Brazil and Australia where yield levels are over 1000 kgs per hectare and world average yield of 728 Kgs per hectare, no doubt in the previous two years, yield levels have gone up to 435 kgs./hectare. The Indian Cotton Textile Industry can therefore, bank up on the domestic production of cotton to meet its raw material requirements. This is a major source of strength for the Indian Cotton Textile Industry. Of course, China and Pakistan are also major cotton producing countries and the cotton textile Industry in those countries also enjoy the same advantage as Indian Cotton Textile Industry.

Challenges:

In order to squarely face the fierce competition from its competitors, we will have to strengthen quality base of our raw material viz cotton. There are numerous problems

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relating to quality of cotton and if we have to earn a place of pride in the International markets, we will have to be highly quality conscious and all of us will have to create an environment in which each segment of cotton sector is highly quality conscious. In order to strengthen our position in the domestic and overseas markets, the Government of India have taken following steps:-

I. Setting up of a Technology Mission on Cotton:

The Textile Industry has been facing numerous problems on cotton front, particularly relating to productivity and production of cotton, problems relating to quality of cotton like low micronaire, low strength as also serious problems arising on account of cotton contamination. These problems were adversely affecting the cotton growers on the one hand and the Textile Industry on the other. Considering enormous opportunities open to the Textile Industry in the Quota Free Regime, the Government of India decided to set up a Technology Mission on Cotton in February 2000 with Four Mini Missions to tackle important problems on Cotton Front. Brief details relating to four M.M. Are as under:-

Mini Mission I: This is under the Ministry of Agriculture It is to devote attention on Cotton Research and Technology Generation. ICAR is the Nodal Agency. The Textile Industry has already provided Quality Requirements of the Industry in order to facilitate development of New Genotypes to meet the International Quality Standards. Mini Mission I has already developed large number of New Genotypes which were screened by the Sub-Committee of the Cotton Advisory Board. The Sub-Committee is headed by the Textile Commissioner and includes the representatives of the Textile Industry. The Sub-Committee has already given go ahead in respect of about 70 New Genotypes and has requested the M.M.I to put them on fast track.

Mini Mission II: This is again under the Ministry of Agriculture. Mini Mission II is intended to work on Transfer of Technology to Cotton Growers. DAC is the Nodal Agency. Considering the large areas under cotton and large number of cotton farmers the ICMF-CDRA has been requesting the Ministry of Agriculture to provide substantially large funds to facilitate taking up a massive programme for Transfer of production Technology to millions of cotton growers and extensively use the electronic media like Radio, T.V. to reach the large number of cotton farmers. The ICMF-CDRA has also requested the Ministry of Agriculture to take steps to associate NGOs like ICMF-CDRA, SIMA-CDRA etc. to take up extension activities to supplement Government efforts and substantially enhance production and distribution of certified seeds.

Mini Mission III: Development of Market Yards to tackle the problem of contamination Ministry of Textiles is the Nodal Agency. Under this M.M 112 market Yards have been modernized at a cost of about Rs.197.53 Crores. Modernization of additional Market Yards is under progress.

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Mini Mission IV: Modernization / Up-gradation of G & P Factories. This is again under the Ministry of Textiles. 270 G & P Factories have already been modernized. Additional G & P Units are being taken up for modernization.

These positive and bold measures taken by the GOI will have far reaching impact in improving the yields, quality and also in tackling the problem of contamination.

II. Raising yield level:

When I took over as Chairman, Standing Committee on Cotton of the ICMF-CDRA in April, 2002 prevailing cotton situation was very alarming in that :-

(i) Cotton production was stagnant at around 150 Lakh bales.
(ii) Cotton yields per hector were very low and also stagnant at around 300 - 310 kgs per hector
(iii) Country was importing about Two Million bales every year spending about Rs.2500 crores in foreign exchange.
(iv) Incomes of cotton growers were very low due to very low yield.

In the entire cotton scenario cotton farmer occupies a central position and therefore, he deserved special attention. We in the ICMF - CDRA thought that raising yield level should get TOP-MOST PRIORITY. Higher cotton yields would lead to raising incomes of cotton growers and that would serve as a stimulus to sustain his interest in cotton cultivation. The ICMF - CDRA, therefore, set out following mission:-

a) To enhance Productivity and Production of Cotton to 25.0 million bales in the next tow years.
b) To improve Quality of Cotton to match International Growths;
c) To reduce the Cost of Cotton Cultivation;
d) To make Cotton Cultivation Profitable;
e) Prevent shifting of Cotton Areas to other competing Cash Crops.

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1) Transfer of production Technologies to Cotton Growers;
2) Improve availability of Quality Inputs-like High Quality certified Cotton Seeds, Fertilizers and Pesticides to Cotton Growers;
3) New Genotypes;
4) Encourage Bt.Cotton;
5) Encourage Integrated Cotton Cultivation;
6) Rain Water Harvesting - Tapping Water Resources

Strategy:

With a view to make positive contribution to the efforts being made by various Government Agencies and other Non-Governmental Agencies, the ICMF-CDRA has adopted a Two pronged strategy as under:-

1. To supplement Governmental Efforts for enhancing Cotton Yields, Improve Quality, etc. by undertaking Pilot Projects in different Cotton Growing States; and
   
   
2. To create awareness amongst concerned Government Authorities, Cotton Growers, Market Committees, Ginning & Pressing Factories, Seed Producing Companies, Cotton Trade and Cotton Mills etc. for making coordinated, well directed, vigorous efforts for improving Quality and Quantity of Cotton.
   

Need to develop new genotypes in Extra Long Staple Cotton (ELS)
category of cotton to improve quality parameters and increase production:

Although country has harvested a record cotton crop of about 23.0 million bales, there is still shortage of ELS Quality Cotton. To meet this shortage, country is importing about 5 to 6 lakh bales of ELS Cotton from Egypt, USA, Sudan, Australia
etc. With the abolition of Quota Regime with effect from 1st January 2005, providing unlimited access to the Textile Mills to the overseas markets, consumption of ELS Cotton is likely to go up further.

No doubt, we have DCH-32 Cotton suitable for 80s grown in Karnataka. However since this cotton is grown even in rain-fed conditions, there are serious quality problems like low micronaire which goes down to even 2.5 and very high short fiber percentage. Moreover, we have Suvin in ELS category, which is grown in Tamil Nadu and which is very good in terms of quality parameters, but in terms of price, it is unaffordable. Suvin is a long duration crop and hence cost of cultivation is very high. Moreover, in case of Suvin ginning percentage is very low. Consequently production of Suvin has gone down substantially.

Considering increasing consumption of ELS cotton, it is high time that we assign top priority to develop suitable genotypes which can match the International growths in terms of fiber property. Development of New Genotypes suitable for 80s, 100s and 120s need to be given top priority.

Need for development of New High Yielding Varieties / Hybrids for Short and Medium Staple Groups:

In a recent meeting convened by the Directorate of Cotton Development (DOCD), Mumbai it was highlighted by Dr. S.Sreenivasan, Director, CIRCOT, Mumbai that most of the New Hybrids developed by the Private Seed Companies as also by Cotton Research Institutes in the Public Sector are falling in the category of 27-28 mm cotton. It was, therefore, felt that in the coming few years, the country may face a situation of shortage in the category of higher medium, lower medium and short staple cotton. It may, therefore, be appropriate that immediate measures are taken to develop new varieties / hybrids which are high yielding and which meet the quality parameters of the industry, in these staple length groups.

This problem is well known. But I am sorry to say that hardly anything has been done by the Ministry of Agriculture. Govt. of Pakistan, I am told, has taken action to reduce the number of varieties to 5 - 6. Whereas in India, we have over 100 varieties notified by Govt. and several hundred private seeds, which are not notified but which are under cultivation. This leads to admixture of different
varieties of cotton with different fibre properties at various stages. This poses serious problems to the spinning industry in maintaining uniform quality of yarn. This problem has serious dimensions and hence it is high time that the Government of India takes swift action.

Contamination of Cotton:

Contamination of cotton is a more serious problem than high trash contents in cotton. Trash can be easily removed in a blow room but not contaminants, which have to be picked up either manually or with the help of machines and results in additional avoidable cost. Indian Cotton Textile Industry has been facing this problem of cotton contamination for decades.

In the entire chain of cotton supply, cotton farmer occupies important position. He decides which variety to be sown, He takes care of cotton crop, But he is not fully aware of what care has to be taken while picking of cotton, storing of cotton in his house and while transporting same to market yard. Problems of cotton contamination start at this level and cause serious difficulties to spinning Mills in maintaining high standards of quality of yarn.

It is a sad story that addition of contaminants in cotton does not stop at cotton farmer's level. But the process of addition of contaminants continues when seed cotton is brought to market yard and then to Ginning & Pressing Factories for processing. Contamination of cotton is totally unintentional but causes serious problems to Indian Cotton Textile Industry. It is really shameful that Indian Cotton is placed in the category of most contaminated cottons. The problem can be tackled in a big way if we succeed in creating awareness at various levels. The ICMF-CDRA makes efforts to educate cotton farmers regarding proper methods of cotton picking, storing and transportation to market yards.

With the exposure of Indian Cotton Textile Industry to the overseas markets in a big way, the problem has assumed serious dimension. Under the Quota Free Regime under WTO, where simple rule is survival of the fittest, we will have to gear up to tackle this problem quickly and effectively lest somebody will push us aside and occupy our seat.

Considering the gravity of the problem, the Govt. of India have taken a strong initiative in modernizing over 270 G & P factories. Additional number of G&P factories are to be modernized in the near future. This has created an infrastructure to provide clean and contamination free cotton.

It is, however, necessary to see that at least the modernized G & P Units take special care -

i) For proper Upkeep of the machinery to ensure supply of clean and contamination free cotton;
ii) To create an environment of cleanliness in the factory so as to ensure that no contaminants are added after the cotton is delivered at the G & P Factories;
iii) To ensure that the Factories use proper packing material like - high quality cloth of prescribed specifications and new iron hoops and use labels for marking to avoid contamination by ink, rusted hoops etc.;
iv) The factory owner should make special efforts to educate farmers to adopt proper methods of picking, storing and transportation of cotton to avoid contamination in cotton.

Cotton Contamination by Threads of White Polythene Fertilizer Bags:

Cotton farmers generally use empty fertilizer bags which are white in color, for storing and transportation of Seed Cotton. In this process, loose threads of white polythene fertilizer bags get into seed cotton. Since these threads are white in color, it becomes very difficult to remove them manually or by machine. These threads cause serious problems to Spinning Mills which are required to pay huge claims to overseas buyers of cotton yarn. The ICMF-CDRA has, therefore written to the Ministry of Chemicals & Fertilizers to issue appropriate instructions to the Fertilizer Plants in the Public, Private and Co-operative Sectors to change the color of Fertilizer Bags to any color other than white. The Ministry of Textiles has also been requested to take up the matter with the Ministry of Chemicals and Fertilizers. The ICMF-CDRA has also written to the C. M. Ds of 25 prominent fertilizer plants for changing the color of the bags.

Role of Marketing agencies:

I feel that marketing agencies both in the Public and Private Sectors have an important role to play in improving the quality of cotton-

a) By proper grading of cotton at Market yard level to facilitateseparate heaps in the G & P factory according to grade;

b) Strictly avoid inter mixing of cotton varieties and

c) Insist on proper ginning, pressing and packing of cotton bales
.
d) They can patronize such factories which have been modernized and are keen to improve quality of cotton and

e) lastly but more importantly play a role of educating and motivating cotton farmers to follow proper picking practices and avoid contamination at field level.

Investments in the Textile Sector to realize potential Opportunities:

As mentioned earlier, the Textile Exports are projected to reach a level of US $ 40 billion ( Rs.176000 Crores annually) from the present level of about 12 billion US$. This, would however, call for massive investments in the Textile Sector. As per the VISION STATEMENT FOR THE TEXTILE SECTOR prepared by CRISIL, investments of Rs.140000 Crores will be needed not only to modernize the existing capacities but also to create fresh capacity. The largest investment need will be in the processing sector, which is a critical segment in the value chain that determines the quality of the fabrics/ apparels. An investment of Rs.50000 Crores is required to set up world class process houses in the country. A broad break up of investments of Rs.140000 Crores is as under:-

I must say that all of us have a dream, a dream in which all segments of cotton economy are going to flourish, benefiting millions of cotton growers on the one hand and the large growing Textile Sector on the other as also several intermediaries which are playing a very important role. This is a dream which will revolutionise the rural economy and make valuable contribution to country's economy in general.

Research and Developmental Activities in Cotton: CIRCOT's Role, Achievements and Future Strategies

Dr. S. Sreenivasa, Director, Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology

In the multifibre regime, cotton base could be strengthened by projecting its positive attributes, adding value to the fibre as well as textiles made therefrom by appropriate researches to overcome the deficiencies by employing mechanical, chemical/biochemical routes, promoting the use of "cotton crop" as a whole by adopting a holistic approach to the utilisation of its byproduces by adding value.

Introduction

Cotton the "white gold" continues to enjoy a pre-eminent status as the major raw material for the Indian textile industry despite the deep inroads made by polyester and its blends in providing cheap, elegant looking fabrics. This commercial crop also provides livelihood for over sixty million people both from the farm sector, trade and industry. India has the distinction of growing cotton in "largest area" and also all the four cultivable species viz. G. arboreum, G. herbaceum, G. barbadense and G. hirsutum apart from hybrids. The country can also be proud of growing cottons of all staples right from 15 mm to extra long and finer cottons having fibre length of 40 mm.

Productivity of cotton is one of the lowest estimated around 375 kg/ha and is far below the world average of 610 kg/ha. The country ranks third in production and 17th in productivity. Several factors like dependence on rain for the majority of the area under cultivation(65%), poor quality seeds and other input chemicals, high infestation by pests and diseases, fragmented land holdings making transfer of modern production technologies difficult are cited as deficiencies leading to low productivity.

Indian cotton is besieged with several intra-fibre and inter-fibre challenges. It is a matter of concern that despite a healthy buffer stock and moderately strong production base, Indian mills have been resorting to heavy imports in recent years. Although low international price and credit facilities have been the contributory factors for the huge inflow, certain quality deficiencies and the highly contaminated nature of Indian cottons have been cited as causative factors. Indian cottons also face problems like high variability in fibre attributes within and between lots presumably due to inadvertent mixing of varieties.

It is well known that cotton being a natural fibre endowed with high moisture absorption, provides the right amount of warmth and wear comfort allowing friendly contact between human skin and textile (see Table 1). However, polyester and more prominently polyester-blended textiles have received tremendous customer support due to their enhanced durability and aesthetic appeal particularly for their elegant look and drape.

Table 1: Cotton Vs Polyester Fibres

Another concern is that the cotton consumption in terms of its share in the fibre utilisation has been on the decline the world over. It is well known that the share of cotton in the whole world has progressively decreased to reach 38% in 2000 and projected to slide down to 35% in 2010. The Indian situation is also equally dismal with the cotton share declining from 73% in 1990 to 58% during 2000. Also the annual growth rate the world over for polyester is noted to be 7% as against the cotton growth at the rate of only 1.3%. The gradually increasing production capacity for man-made fibres and the comparatively low material cost of polyester have contributed in good measure to the down slide in the cotton share in fibre consumption. Efforts are urgently required in India to halt the down slide in cotton base. Also measures to diversify and enhance the use of cotton in non-traditional applications should be immediately taken to boost growth.

In the multifibre regime, cotton base could be strengthened by projecting its positive attributes, adding value to the fibre as well as textiles made therefrom by appropriate researches to overcome the deficiencies by employing mechanical, chemical/biochemical routes, promoting the use of "cotton crop" as a whole by adopting a holistic approach to the utilisation of its byproduces by adding value. CIRCOT has been channelising its research towards empowering cotton and strengthening its base despite stiff competition from man-made fibres. A brief resume of the achievements made in this direction and future strategies are delineated here.

I. Research to Produce Clean Contaminant-free Cotton

(a) Increasing Productivity of DR Gins:

India's inherent advantage continues to be its "gentle ginning" particularly for the long and extra long cotton providing a smooth feeling. However the low productivity of DR Gins has been one of its deficiencies. CIRCOT's researches have been over the years directed to devise technologies for energy efficient, high productive gentle ginning using double roller gins. The DR Gin has been modified to independently control the speeds of the roller and beater accurately. This enables choice of appropriate speeds for both the roller and the beater depending upon the staple length of the cotton. Large scale ginning trials using variable speed gin have shown that lint output increased by 70% to 140%over the conventional machine that normally gives an output of 45 kg/ha without any additional demand on power. Even short stapled cottons which are otherwise difficult to gin using conventional DR machine could be successfully ginned using the VS Gin realising optimum productivity.

In DR Gins, ginning is carried out in cycles. Each cycle has three sub cycles namely feeding time, ginning time and idle time. Conventional DR has a ratio of feeding time to ginning time as 2:1. CIRCOT's efforts to increase the feeding time (picking and pulling time of fibres) to ginning time ratio from 2:1 to higher values like 2.9:1, 3.6:1 and 4.6:1 have resulted in 30% maximum improvement in productivity with no additional demand on power.

CIRCOT has also brought in significant modifications in the mechanisms to apply pressure on to the rollers; the gear mechanisms and improved roller material etc. As a result, productivity has been almost doubled with significant reduction in energy consumption, maintenance cost etc.

(b) Development of Efficient Cleaning Machines:

An inclined cylinder type precleaner designed by CIRCOT can efficiently clean even "kawdi" grade kapas. This "import substitute" precleaner produces more open and cleaned kapas enough to feed 20 DR Gins and also improves the productivity of the gin reducing the cost of ginning with concomitant saving in power consumption.

CIRCOT has also developed a series of cleaners like extractor cleaner, stick remover etc. especially to preclean most trashy and mechanically picked cotton. The Institute is also in the process of commercialising machines for heaping, leather grooving etc.

(c) Human resource development in ginning

It is an acknowledged fact that many ginneries in India have old and outdated machines operated by untrained technicians and workers. Inadequate precleaning, poor storage facility for kapas, deficiency in machinery maintenance and absence of trained personnel characterise the Indian ginning industry. As a result, trashy, contaminated and damaged lint of low appearance grade and reduced commercial value is produced in the country.

It is generally believed that all the blame for the deficiency in the Indian cottons lies with outdated ginning and pressing machinery. However, CIRCOT holds the view that it is not "machines" but "men" behind them who are the cause for unsatisfactory ginning. Gin setting and gin maintenance are critical operations that influence the lint quality even if the machines are new and modern. CIRCOT's ginning training on modern lines imparted to personnel attached to ginneries is very relevant in this context. The training course is talilor-made keeping in mind all aspects of ginning, pre and post cleaning, conveying systems, bale pressing and material management. Greater emphasis is laid on energy efficient processing and management of ginneries during the training. Ginning training has become much more relevant in the current context of modernisation of Ginning infrastructure under the Technology Mission on Cotton; in order to realise higher productivity but at the same time keeping ginning cost at a lower level.

II. Researches to Preserve/Project/Monitor pristine qualities of Cotton:

There can be no two opinion regarding the crucial role played by the lint quality in deciding the mechanical processing efficiency and properties of yarns spun from cotton. About 60% of the yarn manufacturing cost is traceable to the cost of the raw material. This makes all the more important to evaluate and use the raw material optimally to derive maximum benefit. Hence, parameters crucial to hassle-free processing become very important while assessing cotton quality.

Equally well known is the fact that cotton, the agriculturally produced raw material shows considerable variation in fibre properties year after year and also from one region to another. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor and take corrective measures, if need be to preserve the quality of cotton fibre.

(a) Monitoring the quality of Indian cottons and enhancing knowledge base of foreign cottons

Assessment of the quality of commercially released varieties to see whether they maintain their genetic purity is a mandated activity of CIRCOT. For this cottons raised under standard conditions employing the recommended cultivation practices referred to as "standard varieties/hybrids" are subjected to quality evaluation to see whether any deterioration in fibre quality has occurred over time and space. In addition to the above CIRCOT also carries out fibre quality analysis on several "trade varieties" and thousands of "commercial samples" as they are marketed in order to help the industry to choose the best cottons possessing the right blend of fibre attributes for yarn manufacture

As is well known about 15% of the cotton consumed by the Indian mills comes from outside the country mainly from Australia, USA, China, CIS and others. Apart from economic considerations certain quality deficiencies have been stated to be the cause for mills' preference to foreign cottons. CIRCOT carries out fibre quality evaluation of several foreign samples submitted by the trade and industry. Based on CIRCOT's experience, the following points emerge while one compares Indian and foreign cottons.

(1) The contaminants are found to be totally absent in foreign cottons

(2) The trash content and microdust are also very low in cottons originating from outside the country.

(3) Foreign cottons pose problems due to stickiness while mechanical processing

(4) Bale to bale and lot to lot variability in fibre length, micronaire and fibre tenacity have been found to be much lower in imported cottons than those found in Indian varieties.

(5) For cottons belonging to long and extra long category, the micronaire value in foreign cottons is rather high indicating good maturity.

(b) Reliable, accurate and quick estimation of quality as a means of cotton empowerment

It is well acknowledged fact that raw material quality plays a stellar role in end product manufacture and performance. The High Volume Instrument has been universally accepted as a reliable and quick means of measuring raw cotton quality due to its precision and accuracy. CIRCOT has gained valuable experience of handling this state of the art machine by collecting data for the last twenty years. Based on the experience, the testing methods for Indian cottons have been standardised and factors influencing test results have been identified. CIRCOT has also delineated areas where HVI results could be advantageously used.

Analysis of the data of Indian and corresponding foreign cottons of similar length groups indicated that the tenacity of Indian cottons is not all that low at least for short and medium cottons as believed by Indian mills and cotton trade. It is only that HVI mode allows one to show cotton as more stronger by pushing up the scale. It is high time that Indian trade and industry understands the commercial implications of HVI level tenacity as quoted for foreign cottons and makes themselves familiar with this mode and adopts it in their commercial transactions.

(c) CIRCOT's HVI Round Test:

CIRCOT conducts regularly round bobbin tests involving all HVI users in the country by sending well blended cotton samples for testing. The results are analysed and those participants whose test results fall below or above the acceptable tolerance limits are informed so that appropriate action could be initiated for setting right the instrument or test procedure. These round tests have become very popular and the participation has been showing continuous rise. CIRCOT's round tests have helped the industry to effectively utilise this equipment and derive maximum benefits.

(d) CIRCOT's Calibration Cotton: A Standard Reference Material

Being an accredited Institute by the Department of Science and Technology, Government of India for producing Standard Reference Material for cotton; CIRCOT on regular basis makes it available on commercial lines the Calibration Cotton for Indian industry for operating the HVI both in ICC as well as HVI modes. This import substitute has been well received and the patronage by the Indian industry is on the rise. CIRCOT's standards are as good as if not better than those of USDA.

III (a) Adding value to Cotton (and textiles) by technologies employing Mechanical route:

(i) Development and Standardisation of Spinning Tests and Miniature Spinning Machines:

The potential of cotton variety and its processing capacity need to be evaluated for its best use and production of value added yarns. The cotton should meet the specifications as demanded by the end use. For the purpose, CIRCOT has developed and standardised spinning test methods as well as miniature spinning machines. A small cotton sample is subjected to actual spinning operation, and the potential of the cotton to produce quality yarn is assessed with reasonable accuracy. From these results it is possible to predict the performance in bulk trials. The miniature spinning system consists of various table model machines designed with state of the art technology. This machine can be operated via an easy operators' interface. The cost of the system is about one fourth of the imported one.

(ii) Blending of cotton with other fibres as means of value addition:

Blending is an accepted method of combining the desirable properties of component fibres with a view to derive optimum benefit by mechanically mixing them. CIRCOT has undertaken from time to time studies on development and production of blended textiles with cotton as a component for value addition. Speciaity fibres such as hollow polyester fibres, trilobal fibres, micro-denier fibres etc. were blended with cotton to produce textiles with different functional properties.

(iii) Fabrics and Garments from Novel Blends:

(a) Cotton with Short Wool/Angora rabbit hair

CIRCOT in collaboration with the Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute, Rajasthan has recently developed technology for utilization of short wool in blends with cotton for production of novel fabrics having desired quality attributes. Machine spinning of Angora rabbit hair, in blends with cotton at commercial working speeds, hitherto an unexplored area, has now been made possible. The fabrics produced from blends of cotton and Indian short wool as well as those with Angora rabbit hair are found to have good cover, light weight and rich feel.

Fabrics for tropical rich feel suiting and jackets (from twill weave fabrics) and plain woven shirts were made from cotton and Indian short wool blends. Low shrink, light weight and soft feel inner wear from single jersey and outer wear from double jersey fabrics are particularly suitable for children.

This technology can be adopted by existing cotton and blended yarn spinning mills requiring product diversification and also by small scale spinning units.

(b) Cotton -Ramie Blends:

Normally, ramie is blended with man-made fibres on jute or flax spinning system. Recently, CIRCOT has successfully processed cotton ramie blends in cotton spinning system to produce 40s Ne ring yarn with a blend ratio of 65:35 using chemically degummed ramie. Value added knitted garments have been produced from such yarns. It is possible to produce high absorbency high quality terry towels from such blends.

III.(b) Adding value to cotton textiles by Technologies employing Chemical/Biochemical routes

Cotton, though is most sought after textile fibre on account of its superior comfort properties, faces stiff challenge from the new breed of man-made fibres possessing superior physical properties. At this juncture, the chemical and physical modifications of structure of cotton is the best alternative to widen its scope of application to produce a range of textile materials catering to the ever-growing demands of the trade and industry.

In this direction CIRCOT has undertaken several research projects in the past and date. The broad areas of research undertaken to enhance the utility of cotton are indicated as under.

(i) Screening of cotton varieties for its response to resin treatments

(ii) Process and input modifications to improve wash-wear properties of cotton fabrics.

(iii) Development of functional finishes like antisoiling, flame retardancy and anti-bacterial finishes for cotton.

(iv) Value addition through dyeing particularly employing natural dyes.

(v) Development of a low energy and less polluting biochemical scouring of cotton

(vi) Establishment of eco-testing facilities

(vii) Antimicrobial finishing through employment of Nanoparticles through non-conventional biological routes

(viii) Production of microbial pigments and application to textiles

(ix) Holistic Approach to Utilisation of Cotton: Add value to waste/ByproductThe products of cotton plant after the harvest of seed cotton and ginning include cottonseed, linters, seed hulls, stalks etc. which are classified under a broad head "Byproducts". Much attention has not been given to the proper utilisation of byproducts. While cottonseed is as a whole crushed for oil, plant stalks have not been exploited. For better utilisation, CIRCOT has been doing extensive research for the last two decades by value addition programmes.

(a) Utilisation of Cotton Plant Stalks

About 20 million tonnes of stalks are generated in India annually. Cotton plant stalks are rich in cellulose and are comparable to the most of the common species of hard wood with regard to fibrous structure and hence can be a potential raw material for the manufacture of particle boards, hard boards, various grades of paper, corrugated fibre board boxes etc.

(i) Particle Boards from Cotton Plant Stalks

CIRCOT has developed a process to prepare particle boards from cotton plant stalks. The process involves chipping of stalks, grinding to particles of a suitable mesh size, mixing with suitable binder and catalyst, mat formation and pressing between heated plattens of a hydraulic press to form the boards. By using different chemicals and additives these boards can be made water proof., fire proof, termite resistant etc. These boards also can be used for interior decoration, false ceiling, partitioning, panelling etc. The process is economically viable and technically feasible and ideally suited for the rural industry for setting up small scale plants (10 TPD - 30 TPD) in cotton growing zones.

(ii) Pulp and Paper and corrugated boxes from cotton plant stalks

CIRCOT has standardised processes for the preparation of soda and kraft pulp from cotton plant stalks. The kraft paper made from cotton plant stalks can be used for preparation of corrugated boxes of various sizes and designs. These boxes conform to BIS specifications and are on par with wooden as well as CFB Boxes. They can be used for pack